Idaho Outback Wirehaired Pointing Griffon Puppies!

We live in the farmlands of Idaho. We are a family including 5 kids, animals, and always bird dogs. We have been owned by English Pointers, Setters and GSHs. Each earned a place in our hearts. Our ultimate bird dog would be an instinctual hunter, trainable, and mostly a great family dog and connected companion, with an easy care, low shedding coat. Now we can share our secret we found the package deal in the funny Griffon. Enjoy our pictures and stories. Christy and Elliott

Anxiety Your making me Crazy

Anxiety and Your Griffon ie You All are making me Anxious! Let’s start at the beginning. We can all agree the WIREHAIRED POINTING GRIFFON, is a sensitive soul. When these dogs were first bred, they were a mix of high powered hunting, pointing, retrieving, and tracking dogs as well as a generous dose of “How can I please you… Please I beg you, just tell me what to do… ” Those soft teddy bear eyes, with their mischievous nature sometimes seduce their humans into buying into the “Your a good dog… I am just going to love, love, love you” “You make me sooooo happy I just want you to be my best boy” Doesn’t sound that bad right? Oh how contraire. I know we went over a lot at puppy pick up. A lot of puppy pick up is about living with a sensitive, softer breed of dog. I am seeing a serious uptick in folks that are mishandling their Griffon as puppies and creating monsters in their adult Griffons. So the psychiatry of raising a good puppy, and I dare say a good human, is the ultimate goal of having a companion dog that is adjusted to the family, and the life a family leads. A dog that can play and participate in all manner of family activities and live in amongst us as we work , travel, and hunt like an integral part of the family is what we strive towards A dog’s job is to be a pet or working partner….. He is not a human child. He is not equipped to make any decisions, other than ones programmed by nature or nurture. Sometimes his job is to sit in a kennel or yard for 8 hours while their human works. His job is to be able to self comfort… something that our small humans should learn as well. I follow the puppy raising principle of “How to raise a BRAVE puppy”. So you begin with positive reinforcement. So there is an incentive to behave in the way I want you to. Some dogs work for treats, some for love, and some to play. I use a combination of rewards. I often start with treats. Most of my adult dogs work for a pat, but I think they all still believe a treat could happen and that always makes their responses crisper. Up front you should expose your puppy to everything and everybody. The more they see and experience the stronger they become. By the way, I consider a puppy any dog 12 months or younger. If I hear a young puppy howling because he is stuck in the wood pile, I take note, and then let him work it out. He figures out he can impact his own fate if nothing else then he was bored being stuck there. He now has a skill of helping himself. Being brave… When a puppy gets bit by an adult dog, the other dogs including the mom do not rush over to console, not do I. So if your pup learns a life lesson, please do not undo it by commiserating with their miserable state. Instead be strong and know what not to do next time. the Postman is real nice, in fact they all are. The water spraying on the road is super fun. The BB gun buzzing through the air always brings out a wing or bird! I love to meet the people at Lowes and petco. I like to go play in the stream and run through the briars with my friends. I am BRAVE. And when your puppy is in a calm collected and strong state that is when they are loved on not when they are fearful, and anxious. REWARD THE BAHAVIOR YOU WANT. I go out of my way to make lots of experiences fun and rewarding for example. When I train puppies for loud noises… First I don’t shield them from the lawn mower and power tools. The adult dogs are calm you are calm all is good. I use a BB gun and am constantly popping at a sparrow or starling. The adult dogs love this game because they know this means a bird could fall to the ground. It is gross I know but their joy outweighs the gross factor for me. The puppies see the enthusiasm. So as the pop gets bigger, the excitement grows. WATER I love to throw toys in, and wade in myself. I always bring other joyful water loving dogs. Never scary all fun. BEING ALONE I have been alone. It is not scary, I know because I have been alone. Now let’s imagine you were never ever alone. Someone walked you while you went potty, someone slept next to you, someone didn’t insist you had to stay on a rug, or your own bed. If you whimpered someone raced over and wiped your tear and tugged you onto the couch. If you yip or whine it is met with a friendly its OK boy. Someone hugged you before they left you while going to town, softly caressing you and in a squeaky voice saying I’ll be back you just wait right here for me. When that same someone returned I raced over crying and wailing, I leapt into their arms just grateful they had not abandoned me. This happens too much. Your puppy needs to learn to be alone and be happy. So give them something special they only get when they are alone. A chew toy or treat. Practice leaving and returning and never acknowledge your puppy. He is busy being alone and content. When you are ready to engage, and he is exhibiting calm, non reactive energy, you can engage. But no need to overdue. After all this is his job. You are rarely congratulated for making it through another long boring day of work, just because you did not have a meltdown. Please hold back when you want to excitedly greet or tearfully say good bye. It is not good for your Griffon who then thinks he should worry because you have clearly just averted death or kidnapping, or are soon to leave to war. Exercise, Griffons are full of it, the need for speed. In every case you should allow your Griffon space to stretch and burn calories. Younger Griffons need this even more than older dogs. Once your Griffon has the edge taken off, we now need to turn on the brain. So teach him things. I mean hard things not just sit. An off leash recall, down and stay for extended periods of time, scent hunt your hidden child or partner, teach him to find sheds, look up what is required to make your dogs a good citizen with AKC and visit an old folks home. Ask him to obey in increasing outside stimuli. Here is where the motivation comes in handy. Ie treats Or JUST LOVE HIM, and he will be a paranoid mess that can’t breathe or whimper without your assuring force. Some just become less of a dog than they should be, some will decide since you seem to need a leader and will try to keep all the bad guys … things away. At it’s worst, I am going to open up this wall or door while you are gone with my bare teeth, bleeding, but dam the cost, because I cannot cope. I can’t trust that person because he limps and smells weird.. I have absolutely no idea how to lay here and pass the time…. What should I do now. There are rules that will help you raise a brave Griffon • I and all the humans in this house are the boss and rank higher than the Griffon. • Babies and small children are my friends. They are prized above all other things by my adult owners, so I worship them as well. I can play gently with them. I never bite, or jump on them especially the baby though she is super cute. They can greet me, and talk high because they are babies… I understand that to a degree. • Teenagers… or other sub adults must adhere to similar rules as the adult owners. They are not to teach me to play too rough, or ignore basic rules. Most Griffons recognize sub adults as being pretty fun. • Griffons do not need to make any decisions. Let your rules be clear. IE Cats are not food…and the like. • Griffons leave kids alone leave other animals alone unless I say different • Avoid talking in a high voice,or treating your dog like it is a baby. Your Griffon is a dog not a child. He takes the high voice in greeting or whatever as some kind of distress, yours or his. • Try petting in an upward movement on the chest instead of the top of the head or back, or scratch a belly. Don’t stare him down in adoration or appreciation, it actually feels dominant to most griffons. • Never greet or say goodbye. It is just another day. Wait for the calm after the storm to appreciate your Griff. • Put your puppy away lots. In the yard on his mat or kennel, with the neighbor. He needs to be adjusted there. If needed add an incentive to keep him there. • Get your keys jingle them and happily return, don’t take the dog, unless you want to. Get in your car come back. Certainly don’t take your Griffon with you every time. • Everyone has the same rules in the house, no matter who you are. If the dog can’t be on the couch than not ever. • Send a member of the household to an obedience class with your puppy. Pick the person thatfeels the least control over the puppy, your 2nd choice is the person that is vested the most, but your house will run smoother if you pick the first option. • Dogs should not be at your level, they are not humans, stay on the floor and off the bed. • Scold without penitence, and immediately. • Swiftly get over the anger of correction. • Walk with a loose lead, if you don’t know how, either YouTube it or get a trainer. Same with biting or jumping. • No harnesses, they incite pulling. If you feel out of control learn to use an ecollar or a pinch collar or a gentle leader. Used as intended they are excellent training tools. • Some dogs need a play collar and a different collar or set up to differentiate from anything goes to your job is to be calm. A back pack etc. The stuff you see on service dogs is on purpose to let the dog know he is working. Use that tool. If this article applies to you, save your dog, get a trainer today. I am here to inspire. Of late have had several Griffons that have struggled and it is breaking my heart. These rules could save those loads of grief. Please know I am not picking on any one situation or person, do not take offense, just saying things like they are. REMEMBER EXCERSIZE, OBEDIENCE then LOVE CHRISTY

GOALS

Goals
here at Idaho Outack Griffons
My philosophy is to produce a puppyat the height of his potential. We start by carefully selecting our breeding
stock. I like to use health screened animals that gives us the best chance toproduce a healthy, long lived dog.

My second goal is to raise our dogs like ahouse hold pet as well as a hunting companion and a best freind for my boys. I
never have more than 5 dogs on the place, it is all I can bond to properly. WE Co-Own with freinds, so other dogs in our breeding program have their own family life.

All the puppies are raised off my kitchen and are handled from day one. There was a great study done by the monks who raise quality German Shepherds. They discovered techniques all of which involve early handling and human interaction. They were able to create more adjusted and
trainable adult animals. So once they begin crawling about they are underfoot, placed all day in the center of the action where even a crowd can't get ignored.

Weather permitting they are kenneled at night and taught
about grass or paper in the house. I love vari kennels they are excellent astheir den and as a tool in house training and transporting. We start introducing them at an early age to water, wings, and all sorts of exploring.

Lastly I want to retain the natural hunting abilities so all our
breeding animals hunt and are close range dogs. Though we do not participate in the local NAVDA groups these dogs would do well in that venue. This is a wonderful organization that gives you a way to test both your dogs natural abilities and your developing handling skills. AKC has some great opportunities
in confirmation but also has obedience and working dog competitions. I can't wait for someone to take one of these guys through an agility course, I think they could sweep this sort of thing, and maybe one day when my family is a little older I will try this myself. My high point is getting the right puppy to the right folks, we work so much with them we know their personalities, and make it our goal for you to know your puppy by the time he arrives.

Duck Rabbit... Buffalo

Buffalo Dog FOOD what the ????
I am asked
what I feed my dogs all the time. I
happen to be from the Veterinary Industry and have had the opportunity to tour
several of the manufacturers of pet food.
I have also had extensive training on a lot of assorted diet lines. You all know I am practical and have an
opinion popular or not on everything in dog world. Here are my musings.

A long LONG time
ago there was an ad campaign from Hill’s Science Diet that showed a photo of an
old leather boot a can of oil and some other assorted items I can’t remember
but I remember the image. It also showed
a pile of meat on the other side. The ad
then stated the protein and fat content of each side…. Exactly the same. Message there was clear not all ingredients
are not all the same. I also remember
another ad that asked you how much a pound meat was then asked how much per
pound dog food was in the store. Message
here what kind of meat can you expect in a pound of dog food that costs say .50
per pound as a finished product.
So that said
my dogs do not eat steak every day nor do I.
They have a unique non human digestive system that enables them to take
energy from both protein sources and vegtable sources as well of course as
vitamins and minerals. Great strides
have been taken in pet food, and many good diets contain EFAs, glucosamines, antioxidants,
natural preservatives, no food colors… etc.
LOVE IT!
But do I buy
the trendy new dog foods that are touted all natural “WILD” “Buffalo” “BLUE”
and more. They claim they have something
over the other foods available. Just
because your dogs food is made from Kangaroo meat… this does not make the
protein source more digestable or preferable.
IN fact the over use of non traditional protein sources has now made
finding a truly food allergic animal a diet they haven’t been exposed to a
nightmare. Don’t get me wrong, I could
care less if you feed duck and potato, but I don’t think there is an advantage
unless it is medically indicated because of a digestive cause, skin allergy or
the like.
I do believe
in purchasing higher quality foods, by well known manufacturers like Purina,
Iams, Hills, Royal Canin. They do their
research. They use the highest quality protein
sources…. Stuff you and I would readily eat ourselves. They are the leaders in additives that
promote health and long lividness. Don’t
forget way less excrement with a highly digestable food that leaves smaller
less smelly piles about the yard. Also a
Griff coat on a diet with adequate fats is heavy and healthy and not quite but
almost shiny. Don’t buy the cheapest
stuff you can and don’t be drug into the trendy side either. Use a large breed active blend. Or if your dog is chunky … shame on you… he
won’t live as long… get him on an over weight diet and quit feeding him the
other stuff.

Parasites YUCK

Whether you may know it or not all puppies get parasites from their momma's milk. Momma gets it from cleaning up the feces of the puppies for the first few weeks. This is a normal mother nature thing that all animals do. Below I have a link to common parasites the puppies will get and get treated for while with me. Remember these parasites are not covered under my health guarantee because sometimes no matter how many times I treat my puppies for these they could still have them. I take a sample of puppy feces to my vet to be tested when the puppies have their vet check. I usually take 2-3 samples with me. But just because 2 or 3 samples may not have it doesn't mean all the puppies don't. And both of these parasites below have incubation periods. So they may leave my house clear and free but have the egg in their system for the worms or coccidia. I tell everyone when they take their puppy home take their puppy to their vet with in 5 days. Take a sample of their feces to the vet to be tested and do it again a week after the vet visit. Until puppies are completely away from their siblings and the other fecal matter in the puppy area they are not clear from catching these parasites. Coccidia link:http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?c=2+1622&aid=727Worms in puppies: http://www.the-puppy-dog-place.com/puppy-worms.html http://www.ehow.com/about_4740383_worms-in-puppies.htmlIt is very important that you take your puppy for all their preventive shots during the first 4 months of their lives. Parvo is the main thing can kill puppies. All dogs can be carriers but it kills puppies and older dogs. link below is on Parvo.http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?c=2+1556&aid=467It is also important that you get your dog's heart worm medicine in states indicated by your veterinarians The heartworm is transmitted during the mosquito life cycle. May through October. Or year round if the mosquito possibly can live through your winter. Also every dog needs a rabies shot the first one is good for one year and then they get 3 year rabies shot.

Puppy Heart Murmurs

My Blog is designed to address the needs of my Griff owners and help them be educated in their chosen hobby. Griffons can be afflicted with a heart murmur and I want you to have a chance to know the condition and understand the outcome on affected puppies. I myself in 26 years of breeding dogs have had about 6 puppies develop heart murmurs by their 6th week check up. All but 1 of these puppies have been considered innocent and went on to live uneventful lives. Unknown cause that clears up completely on their own by 18 to 21 weeks. One puppy named Pearl, was physically impacted by this congenital condition. We identified her before she left my place. Ultimately she lived a joyful but shortened lifespan. This is an article from the Magazine Bulldog world Heart Murmurs in Puppies Home Puppy The heart operates with a pump like action. Divided into four chambers-right atrium, right ventricle, left atrium, left ventricle-the heart has four valves that work to keep blood flowing in one direction. The valves open and close, letting blood in and then pumping it out. That sound is created from the movement of the valves and the flowing of the blood.The sound a murmur makes depends on when it occurs in the cardiac cycle.Correct auscultation of a puppy's heart at less than 8 weeks of age may reveal a heart murmur. This does not necessarily mean that there is a disease process occurring; however, it may.

To define a heart murmur, an often used example is the vibration felt, and the subsequent sound you hear, when you pinch a garden hose between your fingers with the tap fully turned on. What is heard when listening to the heart is a slurring of the normally distinct heart sounds. This may be a continuous slurring, or it may be intermittent at the point of each beat heard.Heart murmurs are graded by intensity of sound, for instance on a scale of 1 to 6. It is not infrequent that one may hear a grade 1 or 2 heart murmurs in a 6-10 week old puppy. Often these murmurs disappear by the time the puppy is 12-18 weeks old, and are therefore termed innocent murmurs. However, murmurs with a greater intensity may mean that there is a congenital heart defect. Most grade 2 or lower will disappear by 18 weeks and the puppy will be fine with no long term or damaging effects. The puppy would be considered healthy and normal by 18 weeks. However, grade 3 usually or higher is a serious problem.cardiac ultrasound exam is by far the most effective method of evaluating heart murmurs, I'd skip things like EKGs to get the ultrasound Exam, if a choice has to be made between tests.

A puppy at 8-12 weeks with grade 1 or 2 heart murmur would be considered innocent with the sale pending a clean bill of health by 18 weeks, free of murmur, (NOW GRADE 3 OR HIGHER WOULD NOT).Because of the nature of many heart defects, their detection and classification is extremely important to any breeding program when a grade 3 or higher murmur is detected in more than 1 puppy or the whole litter has a murmur.

Submissive peeing Learn to Greet your puppy/ dog

I am going to write an article because one of our puppy buyers is having some issues with submissive peeing. First let's review the wolf pack that is the first family group of all dogs. In Dog language there are dominate and submissive pack members. In order to survive in the pack a dog shows submission to have access to food, get attention, and to be generally accepted in the family pack. The dominate dog will stare at the lower member, stand over them, perhaps put their mouth over the other dog even bite, growl, and generally be much bigger than the lowly pack member. For one moment think of yourself towering over your puppy reaching down from above and placing your hand on the top of their head. Seems very normal... but what if your puppy happens to be a rather submissive individual with little intestinal fortitude. The best way they can show how great and powerful you are is by peeing all over the floor and flopping to the ground. This is very annoying to all humans, not to mention a pain to clean up. Here is the good news, most dogs can be trained out of the behavior, and most dogs to a certain extent grow out of the behavior.
So now you know what the behavior is now what to do with this puppy. First off acceptance and attention is what they crave. There are a couple approaches to take, 1st just like children attention whether positive or negative is sought. Yelling and scolding makes submissive peeing more like submissive flooding. So here are some stratedgies no fuss, no drama, no high voice, no dominate postures, in fact this puppy needs to realize you have no interest in him at all during greetings. The greeting period is the number 1 time this problem happens so usually once the greeting phase is over you will minimize the behavior.
First option, from now on greeting is not about seeing and paying omage to you but is focused on a food treat. The puppy is taught to stand still waiting for a treat. The focus is pulled off the submissive greeting and now focused on a task. By the time the task is performed a few times the greeting phase is over. This has to happen from all members of the family.
2nd option, ignore the puppy, from now on you give the puppy not a second glance, no greeting, no voice, no attention, let the puppy settle down, get past that time period. Only reward calm and drama free behavior. I like to encourage them to stand quietly and allow a belly rub or an upward rub on the chest. Focus the puppy on staying upright as dogs rarely pee standing up. Keep in mind you are the ALPHA WOLF help your puppy have confidence, training puppy classes, and tasks give them a purpose that helps them be the adjusted dog they can be! See my next article where we will discuss excited peeing, which is related but not the same.

Feedback

Hi christy, Grif is doing awsome , i love hime so much . he still sleeps in my bed everynight ,thanks for teaching him that one , is doing great on the ducks and on pointing grouse. i am starting a outfitting service next fall will be doing black bear and moose and caribou . griff will be abel to go all the time . Have ben working remote jobs to bankrole the outtfitting gig . griff get so weird when im gone its funny he nocks the phone out of pams hands when the phone rings and i have to talk to him or he pouts .that dog is so smart . i want to get a female in the spring if it works out . Let me no on the pup . Im guiding elk hunts in townsed montana september threw november so will be own in your neck of the woods then .
take care Brent Harrington

olen hilliard
Hi, I can't believe he's almost a year old! Here are a couple pictures of ourcurious George. He's been a terrific addition to our family, given life to ourold dog and helped me log many miles. Both on foot and by horse. He loves tohunt, loves to go in the car and generally is a great dog around all. You canactually go hunting without a gun and still get live birds :) He also looksgreat with Reindeer antlers at Christmas.!We're hoping to finish the Canine Good Citizenship exam in April. He's readyand willing. Thanks for the terrific dog and I still love the dog name. Neverchanged it... sherrill & mark

Roy Kandi Chilcott
Hi Christy,Thistle, renamed Maggie, is getting along great! She is so smart! It's a lot of work but we are getting along great with potty & kennel training. She already sits by the door when she needs to go out! Amazing! Kandi

Ben Krupka
Hi Christy,Thanks for your advice the other day. Here's some recent pics of Frieda. All between the ages of 18 and 19 weeks old.She's a dream come true!Thanks,Ben

joy gates
Hey Christy- Just wanted to wish you a Happy New Year- love to hear about the other pups from Rose's litter. Hazel is a beauty. Her eye lashes are about an inch long, she's patient, so funny and very smart! She's a lap lover, woodland explorer and I'm very sure she has springs in her toes. She hasn't quite got the catching popcorn thing down, but with practice... :) Hope you are enjoying the season. We are, in great part to your contribution!

Michele L. Turek
Hello Christy,I just want to give you an up date on Sugar or Darla as we call her. She is doing great, very healthy and smart. We have a field near our house which she loves to run and practicing pointing. She easily learned bathroom duties, come, sit and down. We are taking her to puppy class next week for more training which is a positive praise model we've been using. If you attach a "good" or say a command with a happy attitude she takes right to it.I've attached some photos of her in action, resting and her favorite "look how good I sit" mode, so you can see how she's grown.
Thanks again for a great dog ,Michele & Colin

Toni Joseph
Hi Christy,That is so weird we were just checking your site the other day to see if you bred more recently!We are IN LOVE with Wren! He is a wonderful family dog so great with our kids! Sage is 5 and Wren is not his dog, he is his "scruffy brother!"Juniper is now one and she lays on his bed and hugs him always!He is so loyal to us and really needs us in his sight at all times..He is an excellent hunter, he flushed a ton of chukar last week and we are taking him out with no kids on friday! I am planning on getting some great pics I will send some over your way!We have done a lot of camping and fun hikes this recent summer and he is so much fun, he always stays close and he really listens when we call him etc.He is very healthy just shy of 60 pounds, and he is always happy!Thanks again he has really completed our family!Brian, Toni, Sage, Juniper & Wren Joseph

So How do I get on the "list"?

The quick answer is email me. That said here is what I recommend. I am starting to get pretty long wait lists of interest. So I would love it if you looked around check with some other breeders. #1 Fall in love with the adult dogs, all puppies are cute. #2 Your breeder should offer a genetic health guarantee. #3 Your breeder should get along well with you... cause life is just too short. Visit with me ask questions anytime. If you decide you can... have the patience to wait a couple litters....... I then expect you to be quite serious about your intent to wait for a puppies. Bottom line if you are in hurry best to keep looking.
Also once you add yourself to the list feel free to email me, I don't want to miss someone because they don't want to bother me. Oh and one more thing, put in the subject line or somewhere, It will cost you $150 to be added to the Golden List designed for folks that are certain. The money will apply to your deposit once pups arrive. No refunds, don't ask. See Golden list article at bottom of the blog.

7 weeks the perfect age

The Perfect age to get a puppy….. I have read a hundred different opinions. You have yours… mine is based on experience. I am an old fashioned, I read a long time ago that 7 weeks was the perfect age to send a puppy out to a new home. But I have tried it all 6 weeks to 12 weeks. In my experience the puppy at 6 to 7 weeks, really becomes independent of their mom. In larger litters she has even less to do with the gobbling hoard than smaller litters. The mother dog plays with them, through mock fights, and chase, and she corrects them when they bite, even settles small squabbles. The puppies also are educated from their litter mates, and pack members. I think a lot of this training is learning that teeth hurt, and one has to be nice to get what you want in life. Very good lessons to learn.

There is a group of folks that think more time with the pack is better. I agree if you are not prepared to spend time training and nurturing your new puppy, they are looking for a pack leader. . The 7 week old puppy is not yet in the fear stage, which happens at around 9- 12 weeks or so. Think of the fear stage as when your children realized some people were strangers to be possibly frightened of. . Puppies walk about at 7 weeks with no fears, except perhaps of being alone. They are sponges. They learn to sit in 1 training session, learn so many things really quickly. Get a book or join a class to see. Very shortly they get much more rambunctious, and head strong. I personally want my pup at 7 weeks old. I can set ground rules like don’t chase the cat early on. The puppy is so ready for individual attention, something that is really hard to get when you have a dozen brothers and sisters. I like to establish rules now when they don’t think of submissively peeing, which comes a couple weeks later. The 10 to 12 week puppy has really started to develop. I feel cheated from the time I have missed enjoying this lost puppy time.

Bottom line my pick out /pick up date will be very close to 7 weeks of age. Air cargo puppies must be 9 weeks per airlines regs. If you personally believe the older puppy is better for you, know you will still need to pick out your puppy on the assigned day. I will expect your puppy picked up by 9 weeks of age, , additional training fees will apply for puppies left any longer.

The Puppy Draft Pick!

Hi. I know you are all very excited about picking your puppy. So I want to run through how I expect this to happen. Sorry it is complicated I will reiterate every match is important to me. In order to accommodate the people that are coming to the house to help pick their puppy in person and take them home picks will be set on an assigned date around 6-7 weeks of age. . I will be assisting in your pick process. I will offer advice and steer you in the direction that you have indicated is your preferred outcome. This is meant to be joyful and fun, so do not stress because you will not pick the wrong puppy. If I were you, as I send pictures and notes about their personalities, make a draft, lottery pick list... top to bottom, if you are 5th pick then know 1st through 5th. I promise you everyone will be thrilled with their puppy whether you are 1st or 6th pick. Litters are expected to be very uniform physically. The last pick is just as likely to be a spectacular specimen as the first pick! Christy

Costs Involved

AKC Registered puppies I accept deposits of $450 total, $150 to be added to list $300 more after pups are born. The balance at pick up. As for pricing contact me personally via email or text. I don't post the price but I will tell anyone happily pricing if they email or phone.I exclusively use my Golden List system to place pups in the order of original email. I accept Venmo or Zelle ask for the code. If you are in doubt, do not just pick someone you think is me. Send 10 cents and confirm I received it first. So far 2 different folks selected not me.... and sent strangers with erily similar code to mine and luckily was refunded after a long struggle. I prefer checks made out to my name Christy Owen or cash. email me for the specifics. Cash will be accepted at pick up.Pups are all registered AKC and come with 3 year genetic Health Guarantee.
I do assist in picking, many pups will fly to their new owners so I work very closely with the owners and the pups to make a great match, see the article entitled puppy lottery and I reserve the right to bump the pick order if I decide to retain a pup from any litter.
Puppies come with all their current shots, some food, toys, and a blankie of sorts when possible. Shipping costs are covered wholly by the buyer, but aren't too bad. A kennel, and health certificate, plus airfare, and a tank of gas to get to the airport. I will help you work the flights and get the figures for you.

FLYING

Pick up your pups on site, and there will be no additional costs. The pups will come with Vet Check, Vaccines, and a health guarantee.
Flying pups is an option for many of you. First flying option is to take your puppy home under your plane seat. You get to see our operation, meet the parents, and often choose your puppy. Costs are your personal ticket, a fee for your puppy... usually $100 extra at the airlines, an under seat puppy carrier. We line up your paper work. Most people fly into SLC UTAH and rent a car for the then 3 hour drive to Rupert, Idaho.
2nd Option is flying puppy in cargo. It requires some expenses figure $241 to $340 or so for per flight, $89 medium vari-kennel that is airline approved, a $59 heath certificate, and $75 gas money for the 6 hour round trip to the SLC airport. I charge you exactly what it costs me. I have shipped all over the United States and Canada. Cargo flights are booked within 10 days of flight, per airlines regulations, we start by trying to find direct flights from SLC, to your major airport. It seems a little daunting so let me help you with all this.

Flying with puppies is an art

To those flying with their puppies. have layers of paper towel in the bottom of the soft sided kennel. When they poop or pee, simply find the nearest garbage can and throw the whole sodden mess away. Dont feed them before the flight for a couple hours, better to feed a little kibble on the plane. Otherwise they will vomit their undigested kibble. Have backup paper towel to reload or have it so deep that you can throw top layers away... usually only one accident per trip. If you let him out he will pee... be ready with a paper towel. Try for tile not carpet. If you have a layover find a quiet corner, he will poop and pee, be ready. I love a ball of newspaper they will chase it for hours then throw it away, a tired puppy is a good traveling puppy. When he is under seat and unhappy occupy with a chew toy then another, ice chips some kibble then switch back, he will get bored and sleep. Dont have a bunch of carry on, your hands will be busy so try to have it all tucked on that kennel somehow. Remember no liquid through the airport security.

Pick up dates

The exact date when puppies are available is tricky! I want you to get the full experience, especially if you are able to come to our place to pick out your pup in person. Many of my puppy buyers come from long distances or flights to get here, therefore puppies will be available from as early as 7 weeks or as soon as they have vaccinations and a couple days to settle post vaccination to 8 weeks. However flying puppies cargo must be 9-10 weeks per airlines regulations. In order to honor the pick order some folks will have to pick via online pictures and info and my help. Dont sweat this within a week or so of puppies being born I will help organize dates so tickets can be acquired and timing established.

Male or Female?

I am asked this question enough to give you my 2 cents. Males are generally bigger physically. They, as a whole, have the benefit of testosterone which I believe makes them have a tad bigger move and perhaps a little more independence. Females may listen a little quicker, but both genders are soft and develop slowly. Females may respond to a lighter touch than a male. The breed is famous for their companionable nature, and close working habits, which does not change irregardless of their gender. Both are extreme physical athletes. If you are in doubt visit with me, each puppy has their unique personality, which veers to the side of humerous rather than serious.

Physical attributes of M&Ms and Puppies

I have been able to see dozens of litters of puppies. Even with an experienced eye walking into a room with 12 Griffon puppies is an over whelming experience. First off they all look alike.... of course not really... but overall they sure do, hopefully they have identifying collars. It is like picking out a special M&M So what to do?
First off keep in mind, you have selected a purebreed dog because of it's physical and mental abilities and characteristics. They have been bred to produce consistant type and personality. So relax, you are perhaps just getting to pick a nuance or feeling you might have about a certain puppy.
A breeder because they are truelly looking for an outstanding speciman may keep 2 or even 3 prospects. Then petting out the puppies that dont acheive the goals your breeder might have in a dog. This is not your goal so let's discuss a few things that you can observe in a 6 week old Griffon.
Physical: Size most puppies are the size of their parents ultimately, but there are some pups that are outside of the average either larger or smaller. So should you want a bigger or smaller pup note the pups outside the average sizes.
Hair length, Griffons grow there coats for up to 3 years. In fact I have been around some really skimpy haired griffs that have a reasonable coat in their 3rd season... as a rule they will put in coat, that said breed standard says the exterior coat is 1 to 3 inches.....BIG BIG Difference. Some pups are born with tons of coat while some pups look for all the world like a German Shorthair. I call these fluffies and tight coats, then there is the middle ground. I have found this does directly correlate to the amount of coat they ultimately have. And NO LONG coats do not shed more than tight coats, it is more of course in volume when they do shed out yearly.
A proper bite can be looked for but it is truelly a little early when pups are ready to leave to really for sure know their bite is correct.
Eye color is a little early too.
Coat color.... I have a sense but I have been surprised. Chestnut or Brown of course lots of dark body spots will result in a darker overall dog, random smallish spots typically are barely seen outside of head or tail color.

Personality of your M&M uhhh Griffon

Ok I have been around a lot of Griffons. None have the "same personality". Yet I read my Facebook page filled with owners talking Griff and well so much the same:} stuff going on. Personality: Dominant, Moderate and Passive. Pack order of dogs demands that hierarchy is acheived for a peaceful pack. Some dogs are more natural leaders some are more natural followers. Puppies have no idea what they are so they mock fight, and wrestle, and mom and dad reinforces as do their human pack. Your breeder may have insight as to pups that lean towards one temperment or the other. A note on this though, often there are wall flowers in the group, the show off everyone knows the mild one everyone picks out, so here is the thing with a wall flower, bring him out of the group and he blossoms nicely. I have seen it time and again, bring your puppy home and watch him develop. Lean on your breeder if he\she is worth their salt they will have some insights. If they lock them in a kennel and feed them twice a day they will have no clue.

PUPPY 101

Your puppy has been fed Purina Brand Large Breed Growth purchased from our local Veterinarian. I like the quality and the coat this dog food gives our adult dogs. I will give everyone a small bag to take home, if you are switching diets mix first day meal 75% mine 25% yours 2nd day 50% 50% then 3rd day 25% mine 75% yours. Makes less chance switching diets will cause any gastric upsets. I never add anything to food except water. Do yourself a favor and buy your petfood from your local Vet. The food available at the clinic has less resadue, ie creates less poop in your yard, gives the dogs beautiful coats, isn't filled with food dyes, and marketing designed for humans not dogs. I like Purina but your clinic will carry some sort of premium pet food designed for our active Griffons. Your next chore will be house training. I like vari kennels. Look up crate training. This is essentually the principle that no normal dog pees or poops in bed. So when not being watched like a hawk or outside your puppy is in his vari kennel. They come to like and appreciate the safty and security of their "DEN". Whenever you let JR out of the vari kennel he is placed on the grass, where he almost always pees. Lots of praise. Then play with him inside. Also everytime puppy eats or drinks, take outside after, when they pee lots of praise. I use the vari kennel for his night sleeping area too at least until he is completely house trained. Be prepared with chew toys, puppies are mouthy, ie teething, replace non appropriate chew items like shoes with their own toys or rawhide chews. Consistantly teach no bite or chew on you by clamping hand on muzzle and saying firmly no. Do not allow jumping on you, your children, or guests. Correct swiftly and consistantly, teach your children too, teach the sit command. He will soon learn sitting quietly gets hims treats and pets. Jumping gets him nothing but trouble. You have a magic window of time when every trick is quick and easy to teach your puppy. Take advantage of this window, buy a training book, enroll him in Petco's training clas., They are sponges. Later you will be less interested and he will be slower to respond. SIT STAY Down, Bark and then No bark, kennel, fetch, are basics but there are lots more things they can learn. Lastly Socialize, Socialize, Socialize. This is important for your Griffon to be properly socialized. Think of him as becoming acclamated to a busy world. Griffons can be a little sensitive to outsiders but with early positive exposure to many people and situations, you grant the dog a sense of self and well being that make them accept a variety of situations with grace and ease. So bring them to the family reunion, introduce and welcome the mailman and UPS, the neighbors kids, the grumpy guy accross the road. Take them to the fair, and rodeo, camping and every event you can, he will be a better dog for it.My one last suggestion is I prefer you not to take them to dog parks and the like until they have had their 2nd vaccination. Parvo and Corona are puppy killers and not something to take lightly. By their 2nd vaccination they will have developed a strong enough immune system to stave off this threat even if the virus is present. But be sure to take them to the Vet and get their booster shots. They should be 3-4 weeks post their first shot. They will have been wormed twice but the Vet will direct you whether your area requires further worming or heartworm prevention and flea and tick control products. Heartworm is potentially fatal and extremely difficult to treat, much easier and practical to prevent.

Bonsai

Bonsai is a young male Griffon that stands around 22 inches at the shoulder. He is well propotioned in a 10 long 9 high ratio. He is a perfect size and is an athlete as well as gentleman. He has the steel gray outer coat with dark liver patches. As Griffons go, he has a slighter tighter coat, maybe an 1 1/2 long, which gives him a slightly less chaotic appearance than Twister or Cody. We have had the chance to watch him grow and develop in his home. He was an early pointer and loves water and all manner of outdoor activities. He is owned by an avid Idaho hunter, Mike Okamira, who enjoys a great deal of upland hunting. Bonsai is gentle around their busy household of children, horses and dogs.
Elliott and Mike enjoy hunting and we became quite interested in Bonsai as our male has come into his later years. Bonsai showed early promise and has not disappointed us. We are excited to add him for all his Griffon characteristics. Our goals are to produce genetically healthy puppies, that maintain calm and trainable demeanors, and that have natural, instinctual hunting abilities. We believe Bonsai is the package.

Birth it should be a TV SHOW

Well this is a sweet surprise of a litter. Rose dug her own den right by her beautiful straw lined clean comfortable whelping bed complete with a lid in a quiet out building. I should have known! I just didn't think thing through with her being 5 days early. By the time I arrived at the house in the afternoon I knew I had misjudged, she bounced out of the whelping area covered in blood slime and dirt... totally happy to see me. She had the look of about time you got here. Lainey had white on of course jumped into the abyiss to dig out 4 little pups. Warm but goey and dirty. One was apparently lifeless but he was still warm and slimy. So I grabbed Arrow, started baby CPR on him, used the baby nose sucker to clear the flem from his airways, these puppies look all the world like dead but they are there many times just given a chance Lainey took the other 3 to the sink and yes bathed brand new pups and blew them dry...Mean time Rose is doing her business too She is now happy with her real whelping room and starts pumping out puppies. Arrow get going slowly so Porter my 9 year old takes over him rubbing and warming and stimulating the little guy. I have never whelped an early litter and the tiny pups were new to me. They were less vigorous than full term so they each required stimulation. I kept bringing porter another puppy to work on soon he had 5. So much for packing for our vacation. Finally all 13 were out. Our stratedgy is to feed Rose as much as possible. The puppies do so well that way and lots of water. She gets picky so we up the anty with packets and cans and treats, we tell her the corgi can have what she doesn't eat ... that helps her clean the plate.

WPG Trivia

Pups are born white with brown patches.

What do WPGs have in common with a cocker spaniel?
They both like to sleep in your bed.

The Griffon comes in a variety of colors including chestnut, brown and Gray. They are also ticked or roan in pattern.

What color is considered a fault by AKC of a WPG?
Black

The correct ratio of height to length of a WPG is 9 tall 10 long.

What do WPGs like to do most?
Be with their owners.

Wire Haired Pointing Griffons

You may have researched the WHPG by now,
but there are some things that make this breed special.

Everyone loves the wild double coat. There is an under coat with the rough outer coat which we believe makes them perhaps more suited for the inclement weather. The coat is easily managed with a brushing now and again. Burs will stick but can be worked free as opposed to a setters fine mattable hair. While the pups are born solid white with brown blotches, the adults range from a chestnut to a steely gray color with solid brown under patches in a roan or ticked coat. The adults have medium long guard hairs, and their hair continues to lengthen asthey mature by age 3 or so. Most of us have come to appreciate the lack of order and rambunctous nature of the WHPG's look.

The Griffon should be slightly longer than tall in proportion , not square, and females should be 20- 22 inches at the shoulder while males should be 22-24 inches at the shoulder.

The Wire Haired Pointing Griffon should be nimble, AKC describes them as cat like in their movements. Rose our female can clear the back of a pick up bed without brushing the tail gate. She is an extreme athlete, never lagging. The great thing about Griffons is they will beat you to the pickup, if you pick up a shotgun, but they will also beat you to the fireplace if that is on your mind. The Griffon has a reputation for being a delight to be around. True to their breed, Cody, the male, has been a pleasure from puppyhood on into adulthood. A gentleman which is a hard trait to find in bird dogs. A calm , almost sober puppy, was such a relief from the perpetual motion we have experienced from some of the other hunting breeds.

And that brings us to our little family which includes small kids, cats, and a host of their friends plus a hunting oriented family. These dogs are the package. A hunting dog that seamlessly enters into a family or companion dog. That said the Griffon will not thrive in a kennel. And due to their athletic nature will do best where they have regular exercise. We love to hunt and would enjoy fellow fans to join us this fall. Feel free to give us a shout!

Elliott and Christy

FACE BOOK Blog

Griffon Fans, I wanted to again invite Outback Griffon owners to join our Facebook page. "Rose & Chrome" This is a page that was started by the owners of a ROSE X Chrome litter. If you are interested in lots of Griff talk sharing pictures or experiences, then email me I will see that you are directed there if you cant find it. Anyone that wants to see the Griff experience in action will love this page and will see these dogs day to day life. We will welcome potential Griffon owners as well just let me know! On a sad note at 13 we had to say goodbye to Cody… the old dog that really started our current direction. Had he not been such a solid and true example of the breed, we may have continued down another dog path. He had a great life, and was miserable not being able to keep up with the others hunting and playing.

OFA or PENN Hip

Warning this is a little bit breeder geek, geneticist, and statistician coming out. I have researched both screening processes for determining the predisposition for a dog having or acquiring Hip Dysplasia. I wanted to screen to advance my breeding program and the overall advancement of WHPG health. So I set out to determine for myself which technology was the most appropriate. I had always used OFA in my program and most of the area Veterinarians OFA hips but are not certified to submit Penn Hip evaluations at this time.

So though both evaluations have their features and deficits, I have concluded that unless the PENN Hip evaluation becomes overall more popular in our rather small breed, the numbers of evaluated animals is so small that statistically speaking the difference between an animal in the lower percentile ranking compared to a dog in a higher percentile ranking may be a couple tenths or so different. Penn Hip compares and ranks against other members of the same breed. That sounds fair enough except the overall numbers are so small. The credit I will really give is a dog in the top 20% most certainly has great hips for the breed. But I don't believe it would even be sound to suggest we only breed the animals that fall in that category. We would exclude really great dogs that have perfectly adequate hips.
Lest you wonder I have not used PENN Hip for my breeding stock. I have all my dogs OFA graded and breed dogs that are rated good or better. I have never had any hip dysplasia in my dogs. KNOCK on WOOD. I know all things are genetically possible but it is our responsibility to screen out this as much as is possible. Certainly don't want our breed to be afflicted like Labs and Shepherds became.

I actually love the scientific and mathematical principles behind Penn Hip. What would be really great is to see long term studies that correlate actual Hip Dysplasia onset with the OFA or Penn Hip scores. This study does not exist to my knowledge. Part of the problem is OFA dogs that fail rarely submit their x-rays. Most dogs with bad hip x-rays are never submitted to OFA. The dog is just spayed or neutered and that is that.